Kendwa vs Nungwi: Which Beach Should You Choose?

The first time I argued about Kendwa and Nungwi, I was in a barber shop in Mlandege, stone floor warm from the afternoon heat, radio blasting Ali Kiba like it was 2010 again. Some guy with a toothpick in his mouth swore Nungwi was king. Another dude, half-asleep under the fan, said Kendwa was the last real beach on the island. Me? I kept quiet. Mostly because the barber was holding a razor to my head. But also ‘cause I hadn’t seen either one yet.

A week later, I went to both.

Let’s talk.

Getting There Is Part of the Story

You don’t just "arrive" in Kendwa or Nungwi. You pass through. You see the whole island changing color as you go north. From the crowds of Darajani to the sleepy curves of Mahonda, and then the coconut-laced breezes past Muwanda. The road gets tighter. More goats. More boda bodas. And suddenly, like magic — blue ocean ahead, fat palm trees swaying like they’ve got no problems.

You gotta go through places like Kinyasini, where roadside fruit vendors will sell you the juiciest passion fruits for 500 shillings, and the old man chewing sugarcane might tell you that the best sunsets live in Kendwa. Might. Because he also said his cousin once caught a mermaid near Matemwe, so… take it lightly.

First Stop: Nungwi

Let’s not sugarcoat it. Nungwi is loud. Like, weekend-in-Mwenge loud. It’s the life of the party. And the afterparty. It’s where tourists lose their flip flops and somehow gain five new tattoos. If you're into energy, chaos, and beach hustle, this is your jam.

You walk into Nungwi, and the first thing you hear is laughter. Then music. Then a tuk-tuk almost knocking someone over ‘cause they tried to snap a selfie in the middle of the road. The locals? Friendly, if you're not being annoying. They’ve seen it all: backpackers with no cash, influencers with tripods, honeymooners trying to look cute in matching khangas.

Every alley has something happening. Fish getting grilled with pili pili at Mama Fatuma’s stand. Maasai trying to sell you beaded bracelets. A bunch of boys from Mchangani setting up beach football matches that somehow get more serious than Taifa Stars games.

And the beach? Oh, she’s beautiful. The sand’s that sneaky soft type — your feet sink in just enough to slow you down. Not ‘cause you're tired. Just 'cause walking feels nicer here. The water? That ocean-blue that messes with your head, like it’s been edited or something. And the tides? Chill. You could jump in at 9am or mess around at 5pm — water doesn’t play disappearing games here. No low-tide drama.

You want water sports? Jet skis. Snorkeling. Scuba. A dhow cruise with live Taarab music and maybe someone who says they’re a pirate. The whole scene is alive. Sometimes too alive. Like when you’re trying to nap and someone starts drumming at 3 PM for no reason. But hey, that's Nungwi.

Just don’t expect peace and quiet. That’s not her style.

Then There’s Kendwa...

Now imagine you walk south, maybe 30 minutes max from Nungwi, and the entire vibe flips like a chapati on a hot pan.

Kendwa is peace. Kendwa’s more like that quiet uncle who just watches, says nothing, then drops one line that makes the whole room go silent.

It’s slow. Intentional. Doesn’t compete for your attention. And that’s exactly why some people never leave.

The sand here feels different. Softer. The beach is wide, like it’s got nothing to prove. No rocks to stab your foot. No vendors screaming “brother! sister! Hakuna matata!” every five seconds. Just the ocean. Clear. Calm. Beautiful.

I met a guy there named Bakari, originally from Kidoti. Rasta guy, always barefoot, always with a half-eaten mango in hand. He looked like he hadn’t checked his phone in five years. Told me he came to Kendwa in 2012 for a job and just… stayed. Said he found his “frequency” here.

Not gonna lie, I felt that.

Kendwa is the type of place where you journal without meaning to. Where your brain breathes. Where you see a dhow sail across the sun, and for a second, you forget you’ve got rent due.

There’s still stuff happening — don’t get it twisted. You’ll find beach bars, moon parties, music around the fire. But it’s less Ibiza, more soulful groove. Even the drunk tourists are respectful. Mostly.

And listen, when the sun starts dipping? Kendwa wins. Hands down. Not even a debate. The sunsets hit different. The light spreads like honey across the sky. You’ll try to take a photo but the real thing will always look better than your iPhone screen.

If you ever want to lock in your time here properly, check the tailor-made the island travel packages for your Kendwa beach stay. You don’t gotta stress the details. Just show up, eat good, sleep easy, vibe hard. That’s it.

Real Talk: What Are You Actually Looking For?

Let’s stop pretending there’s a clear winner. It really depends on you.

You the type to dance until 3 AM, wake up at 8 and still go scuba diving? Nungwi’s your place. It’s for the adventurers, the loud laughers, the people who treat holidays like missions.

You want long walks on a beach with no shoes, reading a book under a palm tree while sipping madafu from Mama Zena’s stall? Kendwa’s calling your name, bro. She’s chill. And she won’t judge you for not checking your emails all week.

Are the beaches physically different? A bit. Kendwa’s sand is a touch cleaner. Nungwi’s got more things around — shops, ATMs, random guys selling sim cards. Nungwi has more budget options. Kendwa leans toward slightly bougie stays, though that’s changing.

You care about tides? Then Kendwa and Nungwi both win. They're like the only beaches in ZNZ that aren’t playing hide and seek with the water all day. That’s a big deal. Trust me.

Locals Weigh In

Back in Kijini, I asked a bunch of boda riders and fishermen where they’d take their girlfriends if they wanted to impress her. Three said Kendwa. One said, “Nungwi, but only if I want her to see how cool I am.” Another dude just laughed and said, “Me, I’m broke. We go to Bububu.”

So, yeah. Even locals are split.

But they’ll all agree on one thing: don’t come to Zanzibar and only stay in one place. You’ll miss the contrast. The flavors. The rhythm.

Final Thought (Or Maybe Just a Vibe)

You ever eat ugali with two different stews? One spicy, full of nyama choma. The other mellow, with coconut beans and some coriander sprinkled in? That’s what this is. Kendwa and Nungwi aren’t fighting each other. They’re just showing different sides of the same beautiful coin.

So go. See both. Walk barefoot between them if you can. Catch a sunset in Kendwa and a sunrise party in Nungwi. Let your own feet decide what feels right.

Just don’t ask the barber at Mlandege again. He’ll still say Nungwi is better. And he still won’t have finished that damn toothpick.